Fashion Creatives Discuss Diversity in Industry Following Virgil Abloh's Louis Vuitton Appointment
In March, it was announced that Virgil Abloh was appointed as the new artistic director of men's wear at Louis Vuitton, making him the third black
designer ever to head a French fashion house.
The appointment was celebrated by many as a landmark moment for racial equality in fashion, but some creatives in the industry are pumping the brakes.
They're making the case that the hiring also highlights just how far the fashion
world still has to go when it comes to fixing its long-standing racism issues.
Hypebeast has published an article titled Why Virgil at Vuitton Only Begins to
Combat Industry Racism that argues, "The hire is not a sign of systematic
change."
British fashion designer Joe Casely-Hayford points out that Abloh and other black designers are only being appointed to positions in certain realms of the
industry. He explains, "Black designers have only been accepted in very narrow
and predetermined roles: street style, sportswear, and afro-fetishism are the
main, easy to digest categories."
Laura Harris, a professor in African Studies at Pizer College, adds, "Generally speaking, blackness and some of its attendant vernaculars of
representation have been white-washed, then made highly visible in serving to
enhance mainstream fashion styles with a 'street' or 'urban' or 'ghetto
(fabulous)' avant-garde edgy lefty revolutionary ethnic aesthetic."
Hypebeast writer Jason Dike notes that the fashion world has improved in recent years when it comes to diversity on the runway, but behind-the-scenes
positions continue to reflect the white-dominated industry.
"You’re totally fine to be on moodboards, perform at the latest Milan shows after party or maybe be in a campaign," explains Joshua Kissi, founder of
creative agency TONL. "But as far as to ideate and create based on the legacy of
a 100 plus year luxury brand, that’s where it gets complicated."
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