Eytys’s spring 2023 collection borrows its name from Love and Poison, a biography, by David Barnett, of ’90s Britpop sensation Suede. Max Schiller was
particularly interested in the acrimonious love triangle that developed among
the band’s androgynous lead singer, Brett Anderson, Elastica’s Justine
Frischman, and Suede’s nemesis, laddish Damon Albarn of Blur.
The creative director leaned into his love and hate themes directly, screen printing roses on washed denims and dipping bleach-treated jeans in an inky
black rubber coating. Male and female models wore clothes interchangeably,
touching on the theme of androgyny. Laser-cut linen shirts, which will
deliberately fray with washing, took on the aspects of Barnett’s gender-bending
lacy shirts, while the Eytys take on the nylon bomber, an Albarn favorite, comes
with sleek asymmetric zipper options.
It wasn’t clear how motocross (trending elsewhere) fit into the Britpop theme, but it makes sense that a brand that started with footwear would offer
leather pieces. One of the standouts in this offering is a pair of slightly
oversized khakis with prep and workwear vibes. The collection’s starting point
aside, they might be seen to evoke the All-American post-war theme that seems to
be bubbling beneath the surface of several collections this season and in pop
culture with the fetishization of the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Elvis
Presley.Read more at:
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